Blue doors, whitewashed walls, sea views, and bohemian cafés. Sidi Bou Said is a dreamy hilltop village just outside Tunis that feels like stepping into a postcard. Here’s everything you need to know for a perfect visit.

Now, let me be honest for a quick second. Tunisia was a country that never sparked much interest for me until my husband, Saleem, was scheduled to work there for the next foreseeable two months. Once details were confirmed and plane tickets were booked, I started to look into it. Tunis has numerous historical monuments and UNESCO World Heritage Sites, but this small town, on top of a cliff, seems to be the hidden gem of the area.

After a bit of research, off we went! It looked like something out of a Greek novel. However, as many locals pointed out, Sidi Bou Said was actually the first town to adopt the white and blue theme, not Santorini. Thanks for that, folks! I promise never to underestimate the power and influence of any country again. First things first, we need to get there in the first place. How?

How to Get There

You have two ways of getting there: by taxi or train.
Since we were already in La Marsa, taking a taxi to Sidi was our best option. We use the InDrive app to hail our taxis because most drivers you can catch on the streets don’t use meters, so bargaining for your ride is your only option, and it's not always reliable. For those coming from the city, the train costs 1 TND and will take around 30 minutes.

Things to See & Do

Shouldn’t come as much of a surprise, but wandering the streets and back alleys of this picturesque town will be your best bet. You’ll see how people live, the incredible artisan work they put into their doors, cats in every corner, and many photo opportunities lie ahead. Look out for small alleys facing the sea, you’ll get some unbelievable views.
Grab yourself a coffee or a tea at one of the most iconic coffee spots. We tried two: Café des Delices and Kahoua El Alia. The first one has the most incredible views, but be aware that they overcharge for what you actually consume. In our case, we can say we were scammed, as we paid double the amount listed on the menu for reasons unknown to us. Kahoua El Alia has a fantastic balcony facing the main street of Sidi Bou Said and is one of the oldest coffee shops in the area. Both Nixon & Michael Jackson visited it! The waiters were so kind to take us inside and show us a bit of its history, and we were genuinely impressed.
Dar el-Annabi is a true gem, and I have to admit we overlooked it and didn’t actually go inside, but you definitely should. This museum showcases a typical Tunisian house, filled with artifacts and art, and its courtyards are among the most iconic spots, offering a view of the Gulf of Tunis.
It should come as no surprise to do some shopping while you’re at it! Here’s what I have to say about it, though. Like many tourist spots, it’s filled with shops and all of them sell the same thing at different prices, so if you’re into that, by all means, look around before settling for the first shop you pass by. If, like me, you enjoy taking home local artifacts that are perhaps a bit more pricey but exclusive, be sure to stop by Renaissance Concept Store. The space itself is gorgeous, and you can find some incredible pieces that are much more than your average souvenir to take home.

Where to Eat & Drink

There are SO many places to choose from, truly. However, as everywhere, that is very popular, and many people are looking into how they can take advantage of you and your money. Let me recap where we actually went:

Kahoua El Alia: Our favorite based on quality and price, BIG bonus for the waiter's kindness. (We filmed it and you can watch it here on our YouTube channel!)
Café des Délices: Popular tourist spot, overpriced and a bit scammy, but you pay for the view.
Bambalouni Sidi Bou Said: The oldest makers of Bambalouni in town and the most delicious! This is the Tunisian donut, and it’s worth a try. We paid for two 3 TND, which is basically nothing!
Blu Blu Sidi Bou Said: A sit-down restaurant with plenty of food options, with big portions and great quality. Definitely wasn’t our cheapest dinner outing, but worth it. We celebrated my sister-in-law's birthday here, and they made sure we had a party!
Unfortunately, you won’t find this place in Google Maps, but it’s at the roundabout next to the mosque! It’s a small local spot where they make typical snacks like maqloub and merguez, stuffed baguettes, and more! We paid very little, and the food was beyond delicious.
As a bonus, and again, another hidden gem is the smallest ice cream shop located close to that same roundabout! You’ll easily identify it because it’s a small building with a very colorful interior, and you can only get ice cream to go, as there are no seats available. I’ll leave a photo of it here for you to keep as a reference.

Best Time to Visit

We visited Sidi Bou Said a total of three times (can you tell we really liked it?), all at different times. In my opinion, your safest option is to go on a weekday, either in the morning or after lunch, around 3 PM. The streets become extremely crowded, and these timings are ideal for wandering around. As far as a coffee or tea time, sunset will be the best option. The sunset and sky colors change, and you’ll see a different side of Sidi Bou Said at night. We saw many more locals at night, hanging out with family and friends, so we really liked it then. The town is relatively small and can be seen in 5 hours, which is stretching it; plan accordingly to suit your preferred level of fullness in your itinerary.

Another thing to keep in mind is the season you plan to visit. We came here for the first time in September, and it was crazy! Early October was perfect in every way, both in terms of temperature and crowds.

Bonus Tips

Bring cash! Not all places accept card payments, so having some on hand is ideal. Another thing to keep in mind is that sometimes the local ATMs are out of cash, so if you can bring from the city, you’re safer. Bring sneakers, definitely no sandals! The cobblestones are uneven, and the elevation will make you walk until your feet beg for help (speaks the voice of experience). Dress modestly but comfortably, such as midi dresses or loose, flowy pants. If you have difficulty with Arabic or French, bring your best translation app ready to go. And finally, prepare to be bombarded by local vendors trying to get you to buy jasmine bouquets or necklaces. We did buy, but not in Sidi, because we found that most of them, besides being very aggressive and literally leaving it for you, the flowers don’t smell that much, and it's just a very unfriendly approach to selling their stuff. Before you buy from any vendor, ensure they offer quality items. In such cases, it's advisable to support local sellers.

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Sidi Bou Said Travel Guide: What to See, Eat & Do in Tunisia’s Most Charming Village